Scrap Bag Sampler week 4 - HSTs

Half Square Triangles @Metroquilter

Those who follow me on Instagram know I love half square triangles. I’ve tried lots of methods over the years but the method I prefer is to chain piece my triangles and then trim to size. Other methods include a) foundation paper pieced -which I find accurate but fiddly b) piecing to size without trimming - never worked for me! c) 4 in 1 - lots of bias edges and still have to trim.

We are going to make four 2.5inch half square triangles, with the final piece being 4.5inch square. 

 Requirements 

(4)  3 inch squares from your scraps 

Instructions

Step one:  Place two squares right sides together. You will have two sets of two.

                                                               

Step two: Cut once from corner to corner on the diagonal. This will give you four sets of triangles. (You may want to mix the triangles up to ensure all four of the finished half square triangles are different. Just remember that the triangles need to be right sides together).

                                                               

Step three: Chain piece the triangles, using a quarter inch seam allowance. Snip the threads between the triangles.

                                                               

Step four: Press each of the seams to the dark side. You will now have four half square triangles ready for trimming.         

                                     

Step 5: With your ruler align the 45 degree line with the diagonal of the block. Ensure that a 2.5 inch square can be made and trim the first two sides of the block.

Step 6: Turn the block 180 degrees and again with your ruler align the 45 degree line with the diagonal of the block. Keep the ruler square with the two sides you have already trimmed, and trim the remaining two sides to make a 2.5 inch square.    

                 

Step 7: Arrange your four trimmed blocks as desired into a square arrangement.                     

Step 8: Sew the top two blocks together and the bottom two blocks together using a quarter inch seam. Press the top and bottom set in the opposite directions. Place the two sets of two blocks right side together, nesting the seam. Sew together using a quarter inch seam.    

Step 9: Press the seams and you’re finished. The finished block will be 4.5 inch square.          

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I was lucky enough to have some Half square triangle units left over from the perfect HST BOM, so I used them to make this block. Cheating ? Definitely not, just using up my scraps. There are no rules in this sewalong:)

Visit our designers on Instagram to see their versions of this block : @cotefleurie @getahashtagkim @JustSewSue @lisasew @metroquilter @picosailors @pippaspatch @quirkyhannah  @surfseasew @therunninghare

#scrapbagsampler

Scrap bag sampler - week 3 - two tone wonky stars

Two Tone Wonky Star Tutorial – 6 “ finished @quirkyhannah

Today we are going to make a variant of the wonky star. Do you have lots of little pieces of offcuts hiding in your stash bucket? These will be perfect for the star points.


If you don’t fancy doing a little star or two tone- see here for variants on the pattern including upsizing to 12” finished, using one fabric or even offsetting your stars!

Materials:

      -          1 x 2.5” square (centre)

-          8 x 2.5” square (background and star points)

-          16 x 1” x 3” scraps for the star points

Tip: Due to the smaller pieces involved throughout the stages when pressing between each step I would recommend finger pressing or using a seam roller to avoid distortion of the seams/fabrics. Once the block is assembled press using an iron to set the seams and ensure a smoother look.



Tip: Some of you may prefer longer or fatter stars in which case adjust the size of your strips by ¼” to ½” either in length or width.



Method

1 – Take a background 2.5” square and the rectangle piece to be the outer point of the star. Lay it right side down on top of the square on the top right side. Changing the angle of the way it is laid down will affect the wonk of the star point. As a guide I normally start it about half way across the square when you stitch. Ensure both ends of the strip extend pass the square.

Trim down to a ¼” seam then press the strip away from the background.





2 – Lay the second strip on top of the first, ensuring both ends of the strip are extending pass the square and sew along it. Press away from the background.

3 – You are now ready to work on the second side. Take the outer point strip and like the first point lay it at an angle across the top left side of the square.  The strips can overlap with the right pair at the bottom or there could be a gap- each variation affects the wonky point, just ensure the strip extends pass the square at both sides.



Sew the strip, then trim the excess fabric down to a ¼” seam. Press the strip away from the background.


Tip: If you would like your star points to be more pointy (i.e. can’t see the join of both sides, ensure that when you place the second section, the part where they overlap on the sewn line is ¼” or less from the edge of the block.



4 – Take the inner star point strip and lay it across the opened strip, ensuring it extends pass the square. Sew and press the strip away from the background.

5 – You are now ready to square up your star point! Trim the piece down to 2.5” square.



6- Repeat this 3 more times to have 4 star point squares,



7- Lay out your star points, the centre fabric and background corners in your desired layout of 3 x 3.



Sew each row separately and press seams to the side. For the top and bottom row press the seams away from the centre square (star point). Then the middle row press seams towards the centre. This will help the seams sit together (nest) for a flatter block.

Sew the rows together and as the seams on each row have been pressed to alternative sides, it is easier to line the rows up as the seams sit neatly next to each other. Your block is now done!



Don’t forget to use the hashtag #scrapbagsampler on IG to show us your version or one of the variations. 

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I love this block and have never sewn anything like it before. This is my version. Guess who forgot to take a photo before quilting the panel ready to make the bag! Never mind.

Visit our designers on Instagram to see their versions of this block : @cotefleurie @getahashtagkim @JustSewSue @lisasew @metroquilter @picosailors @pippaspatch @quirkyhannah  @surfseasew @therunninghare

#scrapbagsampler

Scrap bag sampler week 2 - strippy curves

STRIPPY CURVES WITH @getahashtagkim

Don’t be scared, curves aren’t as tricky as you think!  Try this easy, no-pin way of making gentle improv curves. The Scrap Bag Sampler SAL is the perfect opportunity to give it a go, as we’re using scraps and making random blocks.

Cut four 9½ x 2½ inch strips. Lay four 9½ x 2½ inch strips in your chosen order.

Then take two strips and overlap them by about an inch as shown with pin markers. 

Using a small rotary cutter, cut through both layers where they overlap, making small curves. Go slowly to avoid shifting the two strips, pin them together at the far end if it helps. Discard the narrow scraps & admire your hills & valleys! Cut and sew each pair of strips one at a time to ensure the curves match. Those straight sides in the middle will be cut and sewn later.

Take one pair & sew along the curvy edge RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER using a narrow seam allowance, 1/8^th inch is easier than trying for a normal ¼ inch, in my experience. You don’t need pins, trust me! Just go slowly, carefully lifting & turning the top layer as you go to align the edge with that of the bottom layer. Don’t pull or you’ll stretch the fabric. You may only manage a couple of stitches at a time before you have to leave the needle down & raise the foot to work around the curves and wriggle the fabrics but it WILL work. It’s trickier to explain than it is to actually do!  (Maybe I’ll be brave enough to post a video)  

Yes, I know it looks a mess right now but it will press flat, if you go slowly. Lay one strip flat on the ironing board, hold the other one up and gently nudge the tip over the iron along the seam allowance to press it over to one side.

Overlap then cut the remaining straight sides as shown earlier. Sew & press as before. Give the block a final press, with a blast of steam, then trim to a 4½ x 8½ inch block. Look forward to seeing
your curves!


This is a deceptively quick block to put together. I cut the block into a 4.5" square for the SAL bag. I suggest keeping it as one large unit until you decide on how to position your blocks.

Visit our designers on Instagram to see their versions of this block : @cotefleurie @getahashtagkim @JustSewSue @lisasew @metroquilter @picosailors @pippaspatch @quirkyhannah  @surfseasew @therunninghare

#scrapbagsampler

Scrap bag sampler week 1 - foundation pieced flying geese

Foundation pieced flying geese

Dip your toes into foundation piecing with this strip of flying geese designed by @justsewsue (me) to start this sewalong

Materials:


2.5” to 3” squares of background fabric cut into triangles

Assorted scraps for geese measuring at least 2.5” by 4.5” but don’t cut your pieces down to this size as you will trim as you go

Foundation paper

Download the foundation pattern here. Print the foundation pattern onto paper. I use Jenny Doak’s foundation paper which I buy from Amazon. I buy the cheapest size and print in greyscale at actual size. Measure the 1” box before continuing. I then mark on the paper the colour fabric that I want for each goose. Don’t use a Frixion pen as you will lose the markings when you press your work.

Then cut apart the paper patterns leaving a good quarter inch around the dark cutting line.

You are ready to start sewing. The first section is potentially the trickiest but after that you just follow the numbers.

Take your first geese fabric and place it on the wrong side of the foundation pattern, face up. Pin on the right side parallel to the stitching line between A1 and A2. Fold back the foundation along the stitching line between A1 and A2. Trim the fabric ¼” away from the line of the paper.

Place a background triangle of fabric face down on your geese fabric, matching the edge of the background triangle to the geese triangle.  Keeping a firm hold of the fabric, turn over and pin perpendicular to the line between A1 and A2.

Turn your stitch length down to 1.6 as the paper will be perforated and much easier to remove. Stitch along the line between A1 and A2. Starting in the seam allowance and continuing into piece A4. Press the fabric away from A1 and double check the darker fabric isn’t showing in the background. If it is, this is the time to grade the seam by trimming the seam allowance of the darker fabric.

Now it’s time to repeat your actions for piece A3. Remember the mantra – trim, stitch, press, repeat.

 

Fold the paper back on the line between A1 and A3. You may tear some of the paper, but don’t worry that will make the removal of the paper easier. If you rip too hard, use a scrap of foundation paper and a glue stick to repair the tear, don’t use sticky tape, it won’t end well!! Trim the fabric ¼” away from the line of the paper. Place a background triangle of fabric face down on your geese fabric, matching the edge of the background triangle to the geese triangle.  Keeping a firm hold of the fabric, turn over and pin perpendicular to the line between A1 and A2.

Stitch along the line between A1 and A3. Starting in the seam allowance and continuing into piece A4. Press the fabric away from A1 and double check the darker fabric isn’t showing in the background. 

Instead of pressing you can use a wallpaper seam roller but definitely press with an iron once the unit is completed. Repeat the sequence – trim, stitch, press, repeat until you have sewn all twelve sections. This is a good leader and ender project.

Press the finished block and trim to 4½ x 2½ inches. Sometimes the paper shrinks slightly when pressing, so just make sure you cut to the correct size.

Wait to sew sections together until you have a better idea of what size you need, but this block would look great as a rainbow. For the SAL bag pattern, I used one 2 x 4” strip and one 2” x 6” strips.

Visit our designers on Instagram to see their versions of this block : @cotefleurie @getahashtagkim @JustSewSue @lisasew @metroquilter @picosailors @pippaspatch @quirkyhannah  @surfseasew @therunninghare

#scrapbagsampler