March 2020 goals

This month's project for our group challenge is number 7. I have ordered fabric for this project from Oakshott Fabrics and found by accident some of the templates I had cut at the library. This is not a big project but I am virtually starting from scratch and two weeks of the month are taken up with eisteddfod adjudication and the exhibition as well as two days of workshops with visiting adjudicator, Philippa Naylor.

I also want to complete:

1. 2019 Prairie School santa - still almost finished

2. 1985 Prairie School Sampler

3. Tate Modern Quilt

4. February cottage from Country Cottage Sampler.

And keep with:

5. Bloomtopia - I am up to date and have started on the border as that's a double check on my counting.

6. Keep up with Alice in Wonderland stitch along with Satsuma Street

7. Mini series sew along with Giucy Giuce and Alison Glass which starts on 22 March. I am having buyers remorse as I ordered the paper patterns on pre-order rather than the pdf which I would have received immediately and it was cheaper.

In addition I need to make some progress on my Tula Pink Hex on the Beach as when it is picked for the group challenge, I want to have all of the units sewn, if not sewn together. I have scheduled in my to do list every week to prep one unit, stitch one unit and stitch two units together. I hope it isn't chosen until at least June or I will be in trouble!!

Scrap bag sampler- week 9 - foundation pieced log cabin

Foundation Paper Pieced Log Cabin by @Lisasew

I’ll cover the basics of the foundation paper piecing (FPP) technique. I find this works really well when using very small pieces to give a really accurate finish. 

This block is a great way to start FPP, so whether this is your first time at FPP, you will hopefully find this an easy introduction to it, or if you are a bit more experienced you will know that this will give you a nice crisp block.

What you will need:

 1.25” minimum square (centre piece)

A variety of fabric strips a minimum of 1.5” wide, and up to 4.5” long*

Printed template here  

Thread

A light box can be helpful (I don’t use one most of the time)

Pre sewing instructions:

Print out your template, make sure you print at 100%. Print on the cheapest printer paper you have as the thinner it is the easier it is to rip out at the end.

Reduce your stitch length, I usually use about 1.5. The stitches need to be small to  secure as you rip out the papers at the end. They act like a perforation in the paper.

When you are sewing, the template will be facing upwards so you can see the image and the fabrics will be underneath. 

Select your fabrics, I have used a contrast of low volume prints and scrappy colours. You can use any colour combination but I recommend a contrast to give you definition in the block. 

Here you can see a pink & blue combination as an example.

Begin Sewing:

Take piece one and place it so that it covers the block A1 on the reverse side of the template. The piece will lay with the wrong side on the paper and the right side facing out. Make sure that you have a seam allowance covering all the lines around A1. I secure this with a pin running along the line between A1 & A2.

Flip over the template and then with fabrics RST (right sides together), place A2 so raw edges cover seam allowance over A1/A2. Here I readjust my pin from the pattern side to secure A2 to A1. 

If you pin along the line you will be sewing then you can flip A2 to double check it will cover the area it is meant to, including the overhang to seam allowances.

Sew along the line. I like to start a bit before the actual line and carry on beyond. If you do this there is no need to lock the stitches here as the next round of pieces will secure these pieces.

Before I do any trimming I press the piece open and hold to the light again to double check it has covered the right space. (When doing trickier angles than we have here it is easy to misjudge the angle and find it needs moving).

When I’m happy it is correct, I fold A2 back to its sewing position to trim the seam allowance of A1 & A2. Normally I would trim back to ¼” but as this is quite small I would go just a little narrower than that, to avoid bulk. Then replace A 2 back to its pressed position.

Piece A1 is the only piece we place facing out, all the remaining pieces are now added in number order in just the same way we added A2.

Take A3, and place RST over the line covering A1/A3 and Pin from the pattern side. Again flip over the fabric to double check it is going to cover the area A3, then if happy, sew along the line. Press, check and trim seam allowance.

Continue until the block is complete.

I trim the block down making sure the final block measures 4 ½” and I would normally leave the papers in until I am ready to attach to the next block. If you find the block is an eighth of an inch smaller than 4 1/2 “ just square it up as you will have enough excess fabric on this final round.

Watch my stories on Instagram as I will have some more pictures on the pattern release and maybe a video if I dare! Good Luck, and thanks for joining us sewing along. Lisa 

**************************************************

You may already realise that I love foundation piecing, it may not be quick, but boy is it accurate. I made one log cabin block for the sewalong bag.

Visit our designers on Instagram to see their versions of this block : @cotefleurie @getahashtagkim @JustSewSue @lisasew @metroquilter @picosailors @pippaspatch @quirkyhannah  @surfseasew @therunninghare

#scrapbagsampler

Scrap bag sampler - week 8 - wonky crosses

Wonky Cross Block by @therunninghare

This block may be simple but it is extremely versatile. Firstly, it can be any size, and need not be square although square and rectangular blocks are the most common. It can be made as a plus (+) or a cross (x) and the strips can be thick or thin and multicoloured in a variety of ways.

To make the block:

1. Cut a square slightly larger than the size of your unfinished block (as our blocks are 2,4 or 6 inches finished then that would be 2.75, 4.75 or 6.75 inches)

2. Make a cut using a ruler and rotary cutter in one direction on your square. 

3.  Insert and sew a strip of contrasting fabric between the 2 halves of your square. Press to the inserted strip.

4. The strips can be any width but smaller than ¾ inch is harder to sew  and wider strips ( more than 1.5 inches) are only suitable for bigger blocks. A good size to cut is 1.25 inches for these smaller blocks. Strips can also be tapered so that they are thinner at one end to give a different look

5. Make a cut in the opposite direction and insert another strip of fabric between the 2 halves. Depending on your preference, you can line the cross strip up on the two halves exactly or leave it not matching to give a slightly staggered effect

Press to the inserted strip.

6. Trim your block to size.

Interest can be added by adding flashes of colour to the strips- see photos of different types- stripes, middle squares in the cross etc  The photo mosaic shows a variety of different blocks of this type

**************************************************

Carol is right, these are very quick but versatile blocks. I used one 2" and one 4" finished block in my bag pattern

Visit our designers on Instagram to see their versions of this block : @cotefleurie @getahashtagkim @JustSewSue @lisasew @metroquilter @picosailors @pippaspatch @quirkyhannah  @surfseasew @therunninghare

#scrapbagsampler

Scrap bag sampler - week 7 - pop goes the weasel

‘Pop Goes the Weasel’ - @picosailors

You will need:

Assorted 3” scraps:

Four for the middle convex, four for the outer concave pieces

(Four border strips:  Two 1.5” x 4.5”, two 1.5”x 6.5”)

Template

Print your template here Using your paper template cut out your first quarter circle block. Use this as your template for the next three, (if you are fussy cutting) by placing it on the fabric and drawing around to get exactly the same pattern position.

Cut four outer concave pieces.

 

Pin your concave block to your convex block at your starting point.

Sew together easing the block round without stretching.

Keep the concave block on the top.

(Don’t worry if they don’t quite meet at the end as you have plenty of wiggle room when you trim)

Snip the seam to help it lie flat.

Open the seam using your thumb nails to press it.

Iron it well, I like to use steam.

Make all four blocks

Trim to 2 ½ ” square.

(Make sure when you trim that you have at least a quarter of an inch at the end of the outer fabric and they are all trimmed the same so they match up.)

Sew your blocks together in pairs then into four, carefully matching all your seams.

Trim your block to 4 ½”

If you want a larger 6 ½” block add a 1 ½” border to each side.

Voila! And there you have it!

Note on templates: I have some acrylic templates from @pappersaxten which are very useful if you plan on making lots of these blocks.

************************************************************************

Thank you Jane for your block. I love the fabrics. And here's my 6.5" block , however I used one of the 4.5" block for my bag.

Visit our designers on Instagram to see their versions of this block : @cotefleurie @getahashtagkim @JustSewSue @lisasew @metroquilter @picosailors @pippaspatch @quirkyhannah  @surfseasew @therunninghare

#scrapbagsampler